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Aromaz
09-16-2005, 03:18 PM
For the last 2-3 months I've been getting pinhole leaks in my copper plumbing. It's only 5 years old. I,ve been repairing it but it,s getting out of hand. I talked to the plumber who installed it and he says " Yea the water around here is so aggressive that I've been lucky to get 5 Years out of it" Needless to say I unloaded on the jerk. Now I have to replumb the whole mat in PVC and CPVC Sch80.

ajay
09-16-2005, 03:52 PM
if you're doing it yourself - why not fix as problems arise. the pressure might be hitting it in certain areas but not all?? if the water is that bad maybe you should talk to professional about filteration system. That might fix your problem without changing ALL the plumbing. If copper couldn't handle the dirty water then can PVC and/or sch80 can?

pete f
09-16-2005, 10:47 PM
do it all in CPVC and use the right glue, Don't even think shd 40 pvc

Anonymous
09-17-2005, 11:48 AM
Check local codes first, many prohibit anything but copper for water supply.

Maywood2
09-21-2005, 03:04 AM
I had problems with pinhole leaks in the copper pipes in my old house (the pipes were maybe 10 years old). Cause was supposed to be the pH of the well water -- too acidic -- eats away the copper over time. (You can see the damage after you cut out the section -- split the pipe open to see how bad the overall corrosion is.)

Solution was to install a water treatment system to raise the pH. (Not a filtration system.) I think the cost was about $1200 (system big enough for 7 bathrooms, 1-1/2" water main, I think).

You might also consider upgrading the copper pipe you use when you replace sections to a thicker gauge -- Type M is thin-walled, Type L is medium-walled (normal home thickness) and Type K is thick-walled. But that's not fixing the source of the problem.

Here are 2 good websites for info on other possible causes:
http://www.advancedh2o.com/technical/manuals_guides/tech_corrosion_copper.html
and
http://www.wssc.dst.md.us/service/copperpipe.html

Apparently, excessive flux used during the soldering can cause the cold water pipe to corrode, typically within 1 to 5 years. Flux-induced pitting will mostly occur along the bottom of horizontal pipe. If it's mostly in your cold water pipes, and along the bottom, you might want to switch plumbers (and let him know why).

Another cause can be water velocity (i.e., pressure and flow). A copper water distribution system should be designed so that the water velocity through the tubes is within the range of 5 to 8 feet per second (fps), depending upon the tube size and the water pressure. (Some recommend as little as 4 fps.)

What did your plumber mean by "aggressive water"?

Anonymous
09-21-2005, 11:42 AM
If the water is 'aggressive' enough to eat at copper pipes, what is it doing to the life span of your machines?

I would think that it is damaging them just as much. Why not investigate that possibility too and see about fixing the problem with the water as well as the current piping issue.

Aromaz
09-21-2005, 08:07 PM
Thank for all the replies. I've found that amost all the potable water in these parts is pumped from deep aquafers. Some of this water has been underground for thousands of years. Some has only recently filtered down through limestone. What I'm hearing locally is "Get away from the copper" I've heard many similar stories to mine. Treatment is an expensive option and since the water chemistry is always changing, sometimes from day to day, it's not practicle. I've been told that the water is only a problem with copper and iron, so I'll go go with Sch 80 CPVC for hot water and Sch 80 PVC for cold. As far as velocity, I don't see how you can control it in a laundromat. One minute no water is flowing, another minute acoulpe washers are filling, and then up to 30 are filling. Another note. I'm found that the local utilities have been replacing all below ground and above ground water mains with Sch 80 PVC.

David
09-24-2005, 05:29 PM
... I've been getting pinhole leaks in my copper plumbing.You just HAD to say something, didn't you. :)

Sprung two leaks from two 3/4" pipes on my water heater.
At least they were easy to get to. I still got soaking wet!

I love this job!

pete f
09-24-2005, 05:42 PM
(snip) >>> so I'll go go with Sch 80 CPVC for hot water and Sch 80 PVC for cold. << snip.

Trust me, it will be much simpler to just redo everything in the same pipe. CPVC. The grey Sch 80 pvc will work, I have that at one mat for the hot water line ( I did not plumb it ) but why have diffefernt sizes when you don't have to, and the CPVC is more common and easier to get. My last 2 mats were done in it, one was 5 years ago. and no problems yet.

Aromaz
09-24-2005, 06:50 PM
pete f,
sch 80 pvc and cpvc is virtually identicle. Cpvc is for hot water, pvc is for cold. Look the same except ones lighter gray in color for inspectors to see. Also, sch 80 pvc costs 1/3 sch 80 cpvc.

pete f
09-26-2005, 12:57 AM
pete f,
sch 80 pvc and cpvc is virtually identicle. Cpvc is for hot water, pvc is for cold. Look the same except ones lighter gray in color for inspectors to see. Also, sch 80 pvc costs 1/3 sch 80 cpvc.

I have both as I said. they may be simialar in sizing, I have never looked that close. I thought the 80 PVC was actually thicker. I had every inspection you can think of in the mat I just opened. No problem going CPVC all the way! I am not sure of cost difference, but my material portion of the plumbing job was very small, and if we use different type pipes and fittings I think waste and time may have cost more than the cost difference between the two.