IPSO bearing job

[pete f]

I have a bad bearing on a 3 1/2 year old washer. It is the 12# HF-55, but I believe it is identical to the 18# model. I normaly buy new when a bearing goes bad, having only one bearing go bad on a 35 yr old Milnor all the years I have owned mats. So I will tackle this job myself. Any pointers? I can probably firgure most of it out, I'd like to know what NOT to do :(
I'm guessing
pull the front panel
take the ring off so can take off the front of the tub assembly
take the bolt off the back shaft that holds the pully, sepereate the pully.
pray the tub assembly comes forward
?
parts: 2 bearing, seal kit and O ring

The tub has a little up/down play now and makes a rumble noise when in high speed spin. Spin by hand and it sounds "course"

[MSKLAUNDRY.]

Pretty much the same as a IPSO hard mount washer except you will need a resonable sized 3 jaw puller. The basket is pressed fitted into the bearings and will rarely come out without a puller. You need to get 6306 bearing, 6307 bearing, the axial ring and counterring. Also some silicone and a 12 mm threaded rod, a 12 mm nut, a spacer (2 old bearings). This is used to pull the basket in. Pretty easy job with the right tools.

[pete f]

I have everything apart except the tub, it is not moving. I will rent or buy a puller. I checked the parts, a bearing kit is listed, that seems to be what to buy. I am assuming it comes with bearings, seals, whatever is needed. I don't want to order untill I have the tub out to inspect for damaged parts. The parts book show clips that hold the bearing in place? I know I have a pair of clip pliers somewhere. I don't have to knock the bearings out with a punch?

[ferd]

Pete,
The clips are bolted in. Just take the bolts out and remove the clips and replace after you change the bearing.

[MSKLAUNDRY.]

You will need to knock the bearings out once you remove the clips. There is a bearing kit available but it is more expensive than the individual parts and is unnecessary.

[pete f]

Pete,
The clips are bolted in. Just take the bolts out and remove the clips and replace after you change the bearing.

I am not sure what you mean about this. I did remove the plate that covers the bearing on the inside of the tub, 3 bolts. Are those the ones you mean? Did not get the spring clip out, my pliers not big enough. Try on Tuesday. I am assuming the spring clip is there mostly to keep the bearing in the right spot? There is no clip on the outside bearing that I can see, but shows one in the parts book. Maybe it is behind the bearing?

The shaft has slight scarring from the bad inner bearing, which went bad due to the seal leaking.

[ferd]

Sorry Pete, been gone this week. The three clips are behind the seal. After you take the seal off you should see the clips with the bolts. Hope this helps--if your not already done with it. If this dosen't make sense the 55 must be different. I haven't seen one but thought it must be the same as 18 & 35's

[pete f]

Sorry Pete, been gone this week. The three clips are behind the seal. After you take the seal off you should see the clips with the bolts. Hope this helps--if your not already done with it. If this dosen't make sense the 55 must be different. I haven't seen one but thought it must be the same as 18 & 35's


No clips, only one big snap ring on each. I got my bearings today, ordered a 12 mm rod Marc suggested to set the tub nack into the bearings. Hope to have it back together by weeks end. I have pictures if anyone interested.

[pete f]

I have one part, am not quite sure which side goes to the tub bearing.
The part is the counterring, from the parts book it looks like the rubber part goes to the spindle, and the metal part will go to the tub assembly bearing. part # 217/00004/00
This seems to make sense, but I have never done this and would like to do it right the first time:)
Any tricks on how to put that outer tub drum back together also appreciated..it keeps me up at night thinking about it

[MSKLAUNDRY.]

Pete,



It shows exactly how the parts should go onto the shaft. Use a slight amount of gease or better yet some silicone around the rubber of the countering which will make it slide onto the shaft easy. The rubber and the counter ring must go on together. Do not try to put one of them on at a time.

VERY IMPORTANT!!!!!! THE SIDE OF THE COUNTERING THAT HAS THE TWO BLACK SPOTS GOES FACE DOWN ON THE RUbBER, THE CLEAN SLIDE IS WHAT HITS THE CARBON RING!!!! DON'T REVERSE IT!!!!!!

BTW Pete, do you intentionally disregard what I say? I already told you how to pull the basket back in, you just need to READ my previous posts!!!!

[pete f]

Pete,

snip
BTW Pete, do you intentionally disregard what I say? I already told you how to pull the basket back in, you just need to READ my previous posts!!!!

your only reffering to my Maytag dryers.........
Not at all. Becuase of that post I bought a 300mm long 12mm rod I will use to pull the tub back thru the bearings. And thanks for the instruction of how the counter ring goes back on. I now see a piece of the old one stuck on the shaft so i will get that off before starting this project. I have ammassed all the tools and parts now.

What I was reffering to is the outer tub cover and ring. I will silicone the front cover and put it back on, but that ring with all the hooks that hold that front piece of the outer tub together has me dreaming nitemares:( It came apart hard, don;t seem it will go back together to easy)

[MSKLAUNDRY.]

The front shell cover is actually quite easy to re-install, however I hope you didn't do what most people mistakenly do. That is to remove the band that holds the clamps? IT is not necessary to remove the clamps or the band.

Using silicone as you have stated coat the gasket all the way around. Press the front shell against the main shell and snap the clamps in place. Use a hammer if need be. Loosen the clamp slightly will help but not too loose or the spring clamps will all fall to the bottom.

[pete f]

The front shell cover is actually quite easy to re-install, however I hope you didn't do what most people mistakenly do. That is to remove the band that holds the clamps? IT is not necessary to remove the clamps or the band.

Using silicone as you have stated coat the gasket all the way around. Press the front shell against the main shell and snap the clamps in place. Use a hammer if need be. Loosen the clamp slightly will help but not too loose or the spring clamps will all fall to the bottom.


Like I said... Guess i will reattach the clamps and ring as I wait for one last part, the c-clip. Should take me the better part of the weekend to put those clamps and band back on:)

Just for the record, I would have junked the washer if need bearings, but it is only 3 years old. I would have hired this out as I do my "big work" but I don't think anyone has worked on these in my area, so I sort of had to do it myself. Plus, it is sort of a personal challenge. Glad I do not own any guns. Thanks for yout help!

[MSKLAUNDRY.]

ALSO be extremely careful when reinstalling the basket into the housing. Line it up perfect so you do not chip or crack the carbon seal which will damage quite easily. If you do you will be cursing and because you'll have to order a new one.

[pete f]

Sorry to be the pain. but I had question pop up.
I have done many bearing job on Sq tops. I use vaseline on the bearing seal to the plate, as recomended by SQ. Should I coat the carbon ring with the same on the IPSO? Or leave dry??

[Joseph Baran]

I've always left it dry. I've done probably 50 machines of various sizes over the last 9 years and haven't had to redo one. I do second the caution about chipping though...if the carbon ring isnt smooth it just get's eaten up.

[MSKLAUNDRY.]

The carbon ring should be dry. The only thing that you could use vasiline, grease or other lube (in a very small amount) on the side of the rubber that holds the steal ring. This will aid in the installation of it on the basket shaft.