ADC236 - NO HEAT HELP! please

[Anonymous]

Lower pocket of ADC-236 no spark. Checked DSI unit and the green light was off, so I said to self "Ah HAH!" and change out DSI unit. Same problem, but there is a chance that the one I put in might not be good - not sure. I checked computer and both dots are lit on display indicating it is calling for heat and the three red LEDs on the computer board are lit, so I am assuming it is a bad DSI but would like suggestions.

What should I check, voltages on what terminals, etc...

The DSI unit is an ADC P/N 128935, I recall these are fairly expensive but there is a better / cheaper alternative -- suggestions please.

Thanks

[MSKLAUNDRY.]

Go to the back of the dryer and remove the back panel. Next to the upshot burner tube is a manually resetable 225 degree thermostat. Most likey someone really overloaded the dryer and caused it to trip.
Push the red button in on the thermostat and retry the dryer. If it works fine after that and the next few days then you can use the money you were going to use to puchase the ignition box on a Christmas present for me, LOL.

Another possible cause is the internal vent damper sticking, but before you go tearing the dryer venting apart to check try the above first.

[Anonymous]

The limit reset was the first thing I tried -- it was not the problem. What is the internal vent damper - are you talking about the sail switch?


What should I test with the Multimeter, before I pull more hair out.

Thanks

[MSKLAUNDRY.]

Another possible cause is someone knocked off the wire to the other 225 deg thermostat located next to the temp sensor in the lint draw. Or, check when the dryer in running make sure the flap for the air flow switch is pulling, enough to activate the switch. Other then that you could have a loose connection in the control box or elsewhere in the dryer. Basiiclly you want to check with a meter for 24 volts AC between ground and various points woring you way back from the ignition box first. Sorry, I don't have the correct sequence as I do not have the phase 5 ADG236 wiring in front of me.

[Anonymous]

Checked all the wires in the lint drawer first, as that is usually where problems occur. Bad design the way the lint drawer can hit the sensors, but that is a story for another day. Checked the sail switch and it seems fine, that is why I assumed the DSI module.

Sounds like it is time to get the meter out.

[MSKLAUNDRY.]

Define "checked"? Are you getting 24 volts AC at the TH terminal of the box and ground? If you are not then its not the box.

[Anonymous]

By checked I meant a visual inspection of no wires ripped out. I will use the meter on it over the weekend and see if we have voltage or not.

[Anonymous]

Checked TH terminal and read about 1 volt. Where do I back track from there to find where the break in the circuit is?

Thanks

[KJD]

As you say the other module you put in may not be good.

Just swap the module from a good working pocket to see if is that or not.

Easy to swap without all the testing.

Then if it does not work you know the problem is somewhere else and can continue testing.

[MSKLAUNDRY.]

I do not have the sequence to tell you. But you should just check the thermos, the sail switch, connectors, etc. Won't rule out the computer either.

[TTLES]

ASDC 236 Heat circuit.....USE your meter !!!!!
1 --At the DSI module... 24 vac between "th" and ground or common. If voltages is present and you have spark, Check for 24vac between "MV" and Ground. If 24 vac is present and you have spark the problem is either in the gas valve or the position of the igniter on the burner.

Lets assume you have no voltage at "TH" and ground...... Check as follows: Meter set to ac volts.....One meter probe on a ground, CHECKING THE FOLLOWING SEQUENCE TO SEE WHERE YOU ARE LOOSING VOLTAGE,,,,,The other probe on ......burner HI LIMIT STAT(both terminals)(red wire, 4 pin connector) >>>>Sail switch, both terminals (red and orange wire, 4 pin connector)>>>basket HI limit stat Both terminals( orange wire , 6 pin connector and 9 pin connector)>>>>>Heat output on computer.

Another way to look at it. 24 vac....
computer heat output >>orange 6 pin connector>>orange 4 pin connector>>basket hi lim stat>>orange wire , 4 pin connector>>orange wire 9 pin connector>>orange wire four pin connector or 2x4 box (rear)>>sail switch>>red>> burner hi lim stat>>"TH"

[Anonymous]

Thanks Tony, I will check that in the morning.

[Anonymous]

Went in this morning and got my multimeter out. Fired the dryer up to start taking voltage readins and the damn thing is working fine now. Cycled it a few times and it works fine, so I guess I am SOL about testing. Hate those intermittent problems. Any clue what might be the culprit that would fix itself by sitting for a day or two?

[TTLES]

The two most common intermittant heat problems with ADC are the ignition module and the flame sensor probe. You can eliminate both with a Ram III conversion.

[Anonymous]

OK, I'll bite. What is a RAM III conversion, what does it cost and what is involved?

[TTLES]

Label wires that connect to DSI module
MV- COM-FP-TH
Remove DSI and install Ram III
wire as follows:

Ram black 24vac hot ....connect to "TH"
Ram orange, 24vac return....connect to machine ground
Ram blue, Main Valve.....connect to "MV" gas valve hot
Ram white with red, Main valve Return......Connect to "COM" (common off gas valve coil)
Ram Burner RTN, Green, ......connect to ground

Remove DSI wire "FP".....this is not used
Attach the HV WIRE to the ram...(I buy these connections at auto supply store) or you can just strip the end, wrap the terminal and secure.
We find that this works better than the origional DSI and is costs less.