W74 will not dump water

[Quarry]

Customer removed cloths with water pooring out machine.
Is this a pluged dump valve or a bad motor on dump valve.
Could any please give me some tips on simptoms of this Nature.
This will be my first dump valve R&R Thanks Quarry Laundramat

[Anonymous]

Well the first thing to do is take the cover off the machine and take the drain hose off the dump valve. Then you can either use a mirror to look inside, or just dump about a gallon or two of water in the machines and see if it immediately pours out the open connection. If the water only comes out slowly or not at all you have a pluggage. You should also check the hose you disconnected and snake it out to be sure nothing is plugging it. If all is clear then the valve is not opening. Could be a bad motor. Put a volt meter across it when it is supposed to be open and see if you get either 110 or 220 depending on your machine. If you have voltage and it is not moving it is either siezed or the motor is burned. Check the resistance of the coil, I think it should be either 141 ohms or 4.6 ohms but I forget which. Hope that gives you a starting point.

[buddy]

First open up the front cover and open up the drain hoses and check if it is clogged. If not then leave the front cover off and run the cycle without any clothes and watch the drain valve. As soon as you start the machine the plunger on the drain valve should move up and close the valve. If it doesn't move up and drain vale stays open then most likely it is the motor.

[Anonymous]

If there is a pluggage, you may still see the valve move up - but at least that is an easy way to see if the motor is functional. You should still open it up to see if there is something physically in the valve - I have seen this to be the case even when the valve physically can move.

[Quarry]

O/K, I am going to tear into it. Thanks for the the tips. I am going in!. Thanks again Quarry Laundramat

[CharlieS]

I just cleared a great plug this week. Machine wouldn't drain. Found 3 $1 bills spread evenly across the drain valve, blocking it completely. Took away at least some of the pain !!!

[Quarry]

I watched dump valve open and closed throughout the cycles.
Noticed a grinding sound when valve opened completely.
I removed entire valve ass' to R&R to learn, noticed gear box has a dead spot in it. So I dig through my parts pile and find about 7 or more of these gear boxes, Hmmmm. Must be a standerd problem with these dump valve ass' So I rebuilt with all new boots and stuff, found a half way decent gearbox and installed. Now the damn thing won't spring open, just motor closed with ease.
I tighten the spring and still no open. the gear box that i installed must have to much drag on it. Cause I can take a pair of pliers and assist to open and it follows through. Or does the motor get power in reverse to assist spring open action. Sounds like I need a new motor and gear box. Do they sell just the gearbox, because the motor I see will last a life time. Your thoughts are welcome.
Quarry Laundramat.

[buddy]

Do you feel tension on th spring after you rebuilt the valve. Make sure there is little bit of tension on the spring. You can check it by pushing the long end of the spring that rests against the post. If not then make sure the other end of the spring the curved portion is on that horizontal pin.

Next try putting some WD40 on the gear box. If you want to replace it then all you need is motor. The motor and gear boxes are one piece now. You can buy it for abot $17 to $19 a piece.

Goto http://www.summitparts.com and browse their website. you will find motor for Gen4 Drain Valve (W74). I normally keep 2 or 3 on hand.

While you are there you might want to stock on those rubber boots they often get hard as a rock with suds after long usage.

When you assemble the valve, do not put too much tension on the spring. I normally turn 1/4th turn to tension the spring. Wascomat suggests one full turn of tension.

Good Luck.

[Anonymous]

If you put the coil on make sure you have it on the right way. Some of the aftermarket ones have to go on upsidedown to work correctly as they are wired the opposite direction.

[Quarry]

I tried to spin the spring one more turn, but it got tight. All my gearboxes seem to be junk that I have for spares. All old and junk.
I will order 2 from summit on monday. But I will try one more gear box.
Oh yeah, You can remove the wires from dump valve while running to test motor Operation complete. Thanks for all the tips.
Coinwash rules!. Quarry will soon be the next W74/124/184 Guru

[Quarry]

Originally posted by buddy
Do you feel tension on th spring after you rebuilt the valve. Make sure there is little bit of tension on the spring. You can check it by pushing the long end of the spring that rests against the post. If not then make sure the other end of the spring the curved portion is on that horizontal pin.

Next try putting some WD40 on the gear box. If you want to replace it then all you need is motor. The motor and gear boxes are one piece now. You can buy it for abot $17 to $19 a piece.

Goto http://www.summitparts.com and browse their website. you will find motor for Gen4 Drain Valve (W74). I normally keep 2 or 3 on hand.

While you are there you might want to stock on those rubber boots they often get hard as a rock with suds after long usage.

When you assemble the valve, do not put too much tension on the spring. I normally turn 1/4th turn to tension the spring. Wascomat suggests one full turn of tension.

Good Luck. Buddy, you stated that wasomat want's
1 full turn on spring. This is impossible if the gearbox has no bind on it. Bearings must be going bad and alowing the pinion gear to walk away from the ring gear and thus creating a binding or strip.
I belive when these gearboxes are new, they spin with ease and go with centrifical force. I replaced old gearbox with another used box and got lucky. When power is removed from motor, that spring whips the valve open. Sorry long winded, good gearbox with no drag or grinding is the answere.. Quarry Laundramat
The stainless freek

[buddy]

Wascomat will ask you to put one full turn but I have had similar experience. If you make a full turn, it is too tight. That is why I turn only 1/4 sometimes even less.