door won't unlock

[n175h]

I've got a Maytag/Unimac 35lb washer that will not unlock randomly about every 6 to 10th time. I've replaced the door unlock solenoid and I replaced the door unlock control board with a swap from another machine. I haven't replaced the door lock solenoid.

I've left the lock nut a bit loose on the solenoid as per Maytag's instructions. The darn thing just failed a few minutes ago and my attendant turned the machine off for about 5 minutes and turned the breaker back on and it unlocked.

I tried that one time before and couldn't get the solenoid to release. I had to run it all the way through a fast cycle to get it to release.

What am I doing wrong? What else do I need to do to fix this?

Thanks,

David

[MSKLAUNDRY.]

Very common problem with this washer, all sizes.

Here is something that you could check.

Remove the front panel and remove the 2 screws holding the cover plate over the lock assy. Does the plate come out and go back in with out wedging it in there. If it doesn't go in and out freely then you need to bring the inner front panel out so that the cover plate will go on without pressing on the lock assy. Pressing on the lock assy will cause the solenoid plunger to bind and will cause you all kinds of headaches. To bring out the inner front panel simply take a 7/16's open end wrench and a 7/16 socket and loosen the inner panel at the base of the frame and bring it forward until the plate slides on freely, then tighten.
As you stated the fiber-lock nut at the end of the solenoid plunger should not be tightened all the way but rather be loose. Also make sure the sliding bar is also loose at the stud and that the white washers are there and in decent condition.
The sliding bar must not be bent where it slides or it will bind. If in doubt replace it, its not expensive.

[n175h]

You know, that could well be a problem considering I overhauled the bearing a couple of months ago. the inner front panel had to come off and be reassembled. I will go down and look at that and see. They are not difficult to adjust in and out.

Thanks for the tip. Of course I won't know for a while if it solves it. I'll try it for a couple of weeks and if no failures, will report back as a problem solved.

Thanks,

David

[n175h]

Well, it has been almost three weeks now and no more failures since sliding the inner panel forward about 1/4". Hopefully, I can be safe in saying, "problem solved."


Thank you for your help.

David

[MSKLAUNDRY.]

Cool!!!!!!

[n175h]

Well, darn it, it happened again, naturally when I'm out doing something. I got a call Saturday night, the darn thing didn't unlock. I went down to the laundry and the customer said it had been tumbling an hour with the lights off.

I opened it up, pushed the timer advance all the way through another cycle to the spin position, it finished and it unlocked.

What gives? New control board, new unlock solenoid, pulled the inner panel out as far as it can go, and here we are again. What am I missing?

Help,

David

[srhaz]

That sounds like a different problem than before. This time your timer was not advancing. Don't know if yours is the type of machine that if there is a drain problem (stuck open, closed or clogged) then the machine just tumbles forever and won't advance.

[n175h]

Shouldn't be a drain problem. I'm going to replace the circuit micro switch. Last thing before the timer. It could possibly be 12b timer contact. That is the circuit that has to make at the last timer increment to energize the door unlock solenoid. I can see the points touch at the last increment by using a flashlight shining into the timer.

I'll try the switch first before messing with the timer.

David

[MSKLAUNDRY.]

Check thermistor on the door lock board it sometimes comes loose from vibration from the contactors. Other than that it could be the timer, mechanical binding of some sort or just the usual result of a poor design that most owners of those washer suffer.

[n175h]

Marc,

I swapped out the entire board from another machine back in October and the unlock sequence still failed after the change.

You think it could still be the thermistor on new board?

David

[MSKLAUNDRY.]

Anything is possible with that lock assembly.

[pete f]

try replacing the roll pin in the door handle, the one on the inside of the door that the lock assembly rests on. I had this trouble with SQ unimacs, it solved the problem, seems the pin gets flattened some and causes door problem.

[n175h]

Pete,

I'll look at the pin, but if I recall, when the handle is horizontal (locked), the pin is retracted and pulled away from the strike bar or cam. I don't see how it would interfere with the lock/unlock mechanism.

Now if it were to hold the unlock mechanism bar or cam in the closed position, the machine may continue to run with the lights off in the tumble mode, but I have not tried that scenario.

David

[n175h]

Well, it's been 15 days now and it hasn't failed again. I took the cover off the timer and folded a tiny piece of sand paper and filed contact point 12b inside the timer. That is the door release circuit and only makes at the last turn of the timer cam at the end of cycle.

It seems they could have made a more simple circuit. It is great when it works but it is $%^$## complicated to trouble shoot.

Also when fooling with this circuit deenergize the capacitor charge after you turn off the power. It can make for a good difibulator.

I hope I don't have to write about this again.

Thanks,

David

[Andy]

I have the opposite problem, the door will not lock during the start sequence. I can usually solve this problem by cleaning or replacing the solenoid or making the adjustments Mark suggested. I have even in one case made a repair as Petef suggested because there was too much play/slack between the door latch handle and the cam lock where the solenoid attempted to engage the lock and was prevented because the latch was not all the way engaged as if the handle wasn't fully horizontal.

With the door open I have held down the switch lever and the solenoid still will not lock. I swapped the board and the solenoid any suggestions?

[MSKLAUNDRY.]

Fuse on top of relay board is blown and/or a bad lock coil.

[Andy]

I had checked the fuse and even changed the entire board with a known working one, but I am still having the problem with the door not locking. It may work one out of four attempts. Also, I already changed the coil so unless they sold me a faulty unit it should be ok.

[n175h]

Andy,
Have you read all the threads on this string? There are numerous things you can do to fix this and all are posted on this topic on page 1 and 2.

Since I started the topic, I can say that since I filed and cleaned timer contact 12b I haven't had a failure since.

Good luck
David

[Andy]

Additional information:

The machine will start and lock normally when using the manual fastr advance switch, however it will only occasionally start and lock using coins to start.

Also, if I attempt to start with coins and the timer begins it's cycle and stops just short of locking and then using a small screwdriver I push down on the 12b moving contactor (inside the timer) the machine will lock and begin washing.

The question is what is the difference between starting with coins and starting using the fast advance button that it will lock only occasionally with coins and everytime using the button?

[MSKLAUNDRY.]

Big difference. Without going into details when you manually push the button you are manually advancing the timer. Doin so you are also advancing it and holding it until the door locks and then releasing it. When the coin drop start it is a two stage proccess. To make it simple the 7b contact is not closing at teh start step which is suppose to then click the timer one step to then lock the door. Starting the machine is actually a two step process in case you didn't know that.

www.msklaundryrepair.com/unimactimerstep.jpg