Huebsch Mystery

[MichaelCa]

O.K. my first dryer problem that I haven't been able to diagnose:

Huebsch JT0300 (6 yr. old 30lb stack)

Symptoms: Occasionally, SOMETIMES, upper tumbler ONLY does
not dry clothes - also, even more rarely, it will trip
the breaker to it - shutting down both tumblers.

This is intermittent, and can run for a couple weeks
without repeating itself.
Lower tumbler has been running fine from day 1 -
zero problems.
Didn't start upper tumbler until 1 month ago, as i
was waiting for parts. (i bought this used)

What i've done:
- Gas coil (gray) was replaced with 'black' one.
- New igniter board installed. (synetek)
- Computer was sent to specialist to clear errors,etc.
when i bought dryer (bought it used recently).

any ideas ?

[MSKLAUNDRY.]

Well there are a few possibilities.

First you state that you changed the gray crappy coils with the newer black ones. Did you transfer the metal bracket from the old coil to the new coil?

Other possible problems are a intermittent air flow switch, intermittent centrifuge switch inside the blower motor, loose molex pin(s) at one of several connectors. Motor relay as the heat circuit goes through it also.

When you get the dryer not heating you should immediately without opening the door or allowing the dryer to stop, go to the ignition box and see if you get 24 volts from ths to ground. if yes then the box is in lockout. This could be for a number of reasons.

See what you come up with and get back to us.

[Bob C]

In one of my mats I have both Alliance stacks and single pockets that are computer controlled. Last year I purchased some synetek ignitors on a recomendation and to save a few bucks. I had some similar problems and after much ado went back to the Ram units and haven't had any problems. At my other mat with mechanical drops the synetek work fine, but I think the rams are better suited for the computer controlled.

[MSKLAUNDRY.]

Yes Bob C, I agree with you, now. Live and learn, LOL. I don't use them on computer controlled dryers. Actually I have stopped using them pretty much altogether except for the DS3-F for the dexter dryers. At first for months they where doing fine and then I started getting one after another fail and I got tired of fixing them myself so that was that.

[TTLES]

I want to say ..I told you so.......I learned the hard and expensive way that the Syneteks are problematic. And that was working with the manufacturer, trying to iron out the bugs. In the end, I got screwed !!

[MSKLAUNDRY.]

Thanks, I needed that, LOL

[MichaelCa]

Regarding Synetek's:

So far, zero probs. on the (3) replacement ignitors <on Huebsch>.

I chose them because Ken on this board, whose opinions i respect, raved about them over another brand (i think he used them on Dexters, though),
and also because a local tech mentioned that the orig. Alliance ignitors were his #1 replacement item.
I'll add, as TTLES also said, that Synetek were very helpful, and a pleasure to deal with.

MSK: I did replace the metal bracket - But the new 'black' coils are slightly different shape, and that microscopic screw that holds it in the Gray coils was pretty useless on the black coils. It does seem a little loose.
As of now it's back to working - mysteriously.

[Glenn]

These dryers must be like the SQ 300 stacks. nothing but intermitant ignition problems since they were installed. The customers love them but they are very poorly engineered.

[MSKLAUNDRY.]

Glenn, I have quite the contrary experience with them, They are so much more reliable that there predecessors, the JT32 and the JTD32. The JT0300's are very easy to fix and leave little lint inside the cabinet. I have over 250 of them that I maintain regularly and have few issues. If you have gray coils on your dryers then I would immediately change them to the black ones,reusing the old coils bracket on the new coil. This may be one of the reasons for your intermittent heat problem. Once that is taken care of you will have an occasional air flow switch that is bad, a ignition box from time to time and sometimes lint getting into the centrifuge switch inside the blower motor that need to be blown out. Sometimes a sticking motor relay contacts. I have started using a different 24 volt contactor instead of the original motor relay to avoid any future problems.

Perhaps you may want to share your specific problems with us?

[TTLES]

Please re read my opinions on Syneteks. I DON'T LIKE THEM, THE COMPANY WAS NOT HELPFUL TO DEAL WITH. I HAD A LOT OF PROBLEMS WITH THEIR UNITS.

With the type of problem you are describing : We have seen a lot of this being caused by the "heat switch" in the blower motor.

[MichaelCa]

SQ300
Glenn: The customers DO LOVE them :)
I'm constantly getting thank-you's for having them.

As for intermittent ignition: Zero probs. so far (4 mos. new)

The prob. i was asking about referred to the same series (JT300 - Huebsch's version- identical everyone says, but they're not!!)

These JT300's are 6 years old, and they ARE different in the back, in several ways from the brand-new SQ300: mainly the gas supply valve system, but other things too.


TTLES: thanks for your opinion re Synetek - i had a different experience, but i'll you know if they go south (they may already have !)
the heat switch can re-set itself (after tripping power-supply) and function fine for awhile ?

MSK: since i bought these used - and very linty, perhaps i should open up the blower boxes and clean ? Is the centrifuge switch outside the box ?

[MSKLAUNDRY.]

Yes the new alliance stacks are redesigned in the rear as you stated, Gas valve assembly and venting mainly. Since you state that yours are 6 years old I will assume you have the older gas valve assembly. Since you have the Synetek installed what do you see on the led on the box when it isn't heating? Is it blinking?
Do you have 24 volts to the box?

One way to know if the blower has collected lint is if the dryer vibrates a lot. If so then you have lint accumulation on the blower wheel and it should be cleaned. No need to take the motor out, just remove the access panel in the vent and use you fingers to plunk the lint off the fan.

The centrifuge switch is located inside the blower motor and is not accessible without removing the motor., however you can use compressed air to blow out any lint that is in there which usually works well.