Wasco 124 Stuck in cycle

[rildin]

Hi,

I have a wasco 124 that is stuck at the beginning of the wash cycle. It went through the pre-wash cycle alright apparently, but now is stuck with the soap dispenser water running as well as the tub water. It ran this way for well over an hour before the customer brought it to the attendant's attention, and I cut the breaker to stop it. Turning the breaker back on restarts the machine in the same condition, and the timer doesn't advance.

Is there a way to cycle it past this point (like on a 73), or some other way to give it a nudge?

Thanks,
Frank.

[Kitty]

Have you checked the Dump valve or diaphram?

[Kitty]

An object may be lodged in the valve keeping the flap within the valve open, the machine will be unable to fill with water and therefore unable to advance to the next cycle. The drain valve is located inside the machine just under the washer tub; it has 2 large rubber hoses on both sides of the drain valve. One of the hoses comes from the bottom of the washer tub and enters the drain valve from the right side. A hose is attached to the left side of the drain valve and this enables the water to be extracted directly into the drain pit. These hoses are clamped at each end to ensure a secure fit. When a washer demonstrates this type of problem these instructions will enable you to fix the problem yourself, eliminate inconveniences to the customer and keep the machine in proper working order.

Once it has been established the frontload washer is stuck in a cycle and not advancing follow these steps:

1. Locate the correct breaker and turn off the power to the machine

2. Using a Phillips head screwdriver remove the 6 screws located on the stainless steel front panel and remove the panel.

3. Start with the hose that is attached to the bottom of the washer tub, use a flathead screwdriver or a 5/8 socket wrench to loosen the clamp. Do not remove the clamp, simply loosen it and push it aside.

4. Pull the hose away from the bottom of the washer. (A washer in operation at the time of blockage will have some water in it and some water may expel from the machine)

5. Using your hand check for blockage inside the end of the hose and inside the machine. Many times the under wire from a bra, credit card or drivers license will get lodged in anyone of the hoses, or drain valve.

6. After checking for blockages, push the hose back into position under the tub and slide the clamp back into its original position and firmly tighten the bolt.

7. Loosen the clamp on the other end of the same hose, following the same procedures as described above. This end enters into the drain valve.

8. The opening to the drain valve is small and you will have to use your fingers to feel for any obstructions. Most obstructions will be within the drain valve, or in the hoses that enter the valve. Be sure to clear the hose and valve of all debris.

9. Slide the clamp back into position and firmly tighten the bolt.

10. Follow the same procedures described with the hose that exits the drain valve on the left. Once finished, be absolutely sure the clamps on all ends are securely fastened.

11. Turn the breaker back on. The washer should fill with water and advance properly. Watch the washer to be sure the machine will finish with no other problems.

12. When the cycle has finished and the customer has removed the items, use the company shop vacuum to clean the bottom area underneath the machine and remove all debris.

13. Place the stainless steel front panel back into position and fasten the 6 screws removed.

It is very common for the under wire from a bra to dislodge after many washes, these are the biggest culprits of obstructing the drain valve from operating correctly. Other items can get in between the tub and be washed through. Some items may get dumped from the machine, while other items will get stuck in the hose or drain valve. This problem is very common and easily repaired by following these simple instructions. However, in the event there is no obstruction found within the hoses or the drain valve, there may be other mechanical issue. If you find no obstruction and cannot determine the cause of the problem follow the current procedures in place for handling mechanical problems.

All emergency contact numbers have been updated and are located at each telephone station. If you have any problems you may call either ######## to assist you with troubleshooting over the telephone anytime you need assistance.

[rildin]

Thanks, Kitty!

There was an underwire (and associated lint caught on it) in the drain valve.

I removed it and put everything back together, but it still doesn't appear to be filling the tub.

Is there some amount of time that the machine would take to "reset"?

Thanks for the help!
Frank.

[Anonymous]

No reset time. Check that the drain valve is physically closing now. It is possible that you burned up the motor on the drain valve and it is stuck open now.

[Kitty]

Your welcome Frank,
But be sure to check again as you may not have gotten all the crap that gets stuck in there.

[Winston]

Something else to consider in this situation (but obviously not the case here) is the mixing valve. If the water turns off when you shut the power, it's not the mixing valve. If the water runs continuously even with the power off, it is the mixing valve.

Observe the action of the dump valve when power is applied to the machine. There should be obvious movement upward as the valve closes. If not, use a volt meter to see if power is applied to the terminals of the dump valve. If electricity is present at the terminals, but there is no motion of the valve, disconnect the power, remove the terminals, and measure the resistance (ohms) across the dump valve. There should be at least some degree of continuity. If there is no continuity, then the coil on the valve has an open circuit.

[rildin]

I followed your checks, and found that the coil on the valve was (is) open.

I don't have a parts manual, and a check on the internet for a wascomat 124 parts manual didn't find anything.

Do I need to replace the entire drain, or can the motor be changed out?

Any ideas of where to find online manuals for the older wascos is also appreciated. :)

Thanks,
Frank.

[Coinwash]

When there no power to the washer, the drain motor/coil will be open - this is normal.

Remove the front panel and start the washer while observing the drain valve. The white piston should turn & move up to close the drain valve as soon as you turn on the washer. If it doesn't then the motor /coil is shot and you can replace it. ($15-$20)

If it moves up but the drum is still not filling up then follow kitty's advise and check for some other debri in the drain valve.

This is very common problem on the washers. 90% of your washer problems will be related to the drain valve so be very comfortable with disassembling and re-assembling the drain valve.

Some of the common symptons of drain valve problems are:

1. Drum does not fill up due to open drain valve.

2. Wash cycle takes longer to finish because of partial blockage in the drain valve or partially open Drain Valve.

3. Water in the drum after the washer finishes the cycle because of clogged drain valve or drain motor stuck in the closed position.

4. Wet or damp clothes at the end of the wash cycle again due to blockage in the drian valve.

5. Lot of soap remains on the clothes after wash finishes because of the partial blockage in the drain valve

6. Washer does not go into the spin extract for the full duration - again check for debri in the drain valve.

Hope this helps......

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