Maytag 35lb

[Anonymous]

I have a Maytag model MFR35 MCAVS that stops working when going into the second rinse. The machine just stops power light stays on but door lock light goes off and you can open the door. If I just press the rapid advance button for a second the machine will then lock and continue in the cycle with no problem. Is this a timer problem? This machine have 2 timers in it a Main and reversing timer.

[BWJR]

Who makes the machine? It sound like something a Unimac would do.

BWJR

[Anonymous]

Primus

[MSKLAUNDRY.]

The problem is not the timer. The problem is the bi-metal actuator located in the door lock assy, part # 23001135. If the washer is still under warranty then replace the part.. If not then expect to dish out about $65 +or- for a new one.

You have two choices here…

1-Replace part, spent $$$ (non warranty) have fail again at some point.
2-Disable function of part.

The only drawback to disabling the part is that if you should ever have a power failure or if the door unlock coil fails, the only way to open the door will be to remove the lower front panel (2 screws) and pull on the hanging cord on the left side. If the laundry is attended then this shouldn’t be a problem for even the inept employees.

The reason I offer this, as an option is the bi-metal switch is 10 times more likely to fail then the door unlock coil. Matter of fact I can’t remember the last time I changed one. So the likelihood of ever having to deal with manually opening the door is small, unless we have another blackout, LOL

If you would like the steps on how to change it out or disable it then just ask and I will post it.

[Anonymous]

Thanks for the help. I think I will change it. What steps are involved. Is there are a reason why it fails in the same spot in the cycle everytime?

[MSKLAUNDRY.]

Yes if you look at the timer sequence at the 2 rinse the door lock coil is deenergized and if the bi-metal actuator is not functioning then the washer will stop. It the only spot that the machine checks the operation of bi-metal (the 2nd rinse). Why the 2nd rinse, I have no idea what they were thinking. LOL

[MSKLAUNDRY.]

To replace do the following...

1- SHUT OFF POWER TO WASHER!!!!!!!
2- Remove all six front panel screws, 4 top, 2 bottom panel
3- Remove bottom panel
4- Using a 10 mm socket and and a plier remove the 4 nut/bolts holding the bottom of the front panels in place.
Note: It is not necessary for you to remove the top 10 mm bolts holding the top portion of the front panel.
5- remove the small Phillips head screws holding the door shroud. You will only have to remove the ones on the left side not the ones at the right next to the door hinge.
6- Lift the front up and have someone or something hold it up while you are working on the door lock assy. I usually rig a bungee cord to hold it up.
7- Remove the 2 large Phillips head screws holding the door lock assy and remove the lock assy, no need to disconnect the plug. Do not lose or knock off the metal spacers that are siliconed to the back of the lock assy. Although if you want to get the door to lock tighter then you could remove them.
Now that you have the whole assy in your hands you can start to disassemble it to remove the bi-metal switch.
8- remove the 4 small screws holding the cover plate to the rest of the lock assy. Also remove the plate from the electrical connector.
9- Remove the the 3 small screws holding the long spring plate.
10- Now you have full access to the bi-metal for removal and installation. when you replace it BE VERY CAREFUL NOT TO FORCE IT IN PLACE!!!!!! The plastic pin at the top of the Bi-metal act. is very fragile and will break off and then you are #$%ed.
Once you have that is place you just need to reassemble everything in reverse order.

Not a hard job but rather time consuming, I hope this is clear enough for you,

If not I have setup a 1 900 # for tech support at $4.95 first 3 minutes and 50 cent each addition minute. LMAO

JUST KIDDING!!!!