W74 & W184 problem

[buddy]

Problem 1:

I have W184 where the Drain Valve does not close. It doesn't even attempt to close. Thinking Drain Montor is bad, I pulled out the drain valve and replaced the motor. Same problem still exist.

I think it is not getting proper voltage. It's 220V 3 Phase machine.

Any suggestions?

Problem 2 W74 Door Lock:

Initial symptoms were I would close the door, put in money, the light would come on but nothing else.
I figured it must be the door lock so I took out the door lock replaced coil and couple of switches and put it back on. On second thought if it was the door lock then light would not come on at all.

Now, as soon as close the door the fuse pops and it's not drain valve because I disconnected power to drain valve.

When I took out the door lock first time I disconnected all the switches and coil but did not mark down which wire goes where and all the wires to switches are the same white color. one jumper wire I beleive was jumped from one connector on top switch and bottom switch.

I think my original problem may not have been door lock but now it is.

Any idea would be greatly appreciated.

[Anonymous]

On drain valve check to see that you are getting 220V, if not it might be a problem from the timer. The other thing, some of the after market coils are wound in the reverse direction. Try taking the stator coil off and rotate it so it sticks out from the gear unit - I know this sounds strange but it sometimes works.

No sure on the door problem, sorry.

[BWJR]

A number of things control the door mech. the celnoid, three switches on the door mech. Also the capacitor and the small circut board on top of the Capacitor all control the door mech. If you can't figure out the wires on the mech why don't you open the machine next to the one that doesn't work and follow the wiring? You must have more than one Wasco similar to the faulty one. As far as the fuse blowing it could be one of the wire connectors hitting the metal plate of the door mech. make sure you have a plastic civer on each connector or electrical tape on each one. Next time you shut the door, make sure you have the front off, so youcan see a spark or a burn mark on the metal plate of the door mech. Often times the mech gets rusted and wet and the wires ware and come apart. Make sure all the wires are tight to each connector.

Good Luck and let me know how you make out.

BWJR

[David]

Originally posted by buddy
Problem 2 W74 Door Lock:

Initial symptoms were I would close the door, put in money, the light would come on but nothing else.

I had this problem with a washer I rebuilt, and it ended up being that the NEW solenoid wasn't pushing the lever over far enough to start the soak cycle. The light would come on, and the needle on the timer would move about a needle width, but the washer would not start filling with water.

I ended up moving the washer under the nut to under the mounting bracket.

As far as checking the wiring, call wascomat with your serial num and they can fax you a copy of the wiring diagram. If the wires are original, they should have a wire number somewhere along the wire.

[KT40]

the drain problem is usually NEVER the timer. When the washer is filling, take a voltage reading from timer terminal 4, and timer terminal 15B. If 208 (or 115 if its a 115 volt washer), the the timer is fine. The problem will be either the wiring from those terminals, or the drain valve itself.

BTW.....the gent who said the coil maybe installed "backwards"...very good observation.....it happens!!!!!

The door lock wiring is as follows.

Upper switch.....wire 56 and 55
Lower switch.....wire 54 and 55 (jumper from upper)
Middle switch.....wire 68 and 69
The locking coil should have a 2 wire plug, but in case it doesn't it's wires 202 and either 2 or 3 depending on serial number.

BTW....if you cross 68 and 69 to any of the wires 54 55 or 56, you will blow the fuse.

Kevin

[David]

This is a little off topic, but which wires do you cross on the timer to start the washers?

When I want to start the washer, I have to open the coin box and drop the quarters through. I'd be nice to have a clip on monetary switch to start the cycle.

[KT40]

add a wire to timer terminals 2A and 3A. Connect the other ends to a the common and normally open contacts of a key switch, or whatever switch your planning to add. When you activate the switch for a second or two, you will start the washer. In addition, if you hold the switch, it will rapid advance until you stop. Comes in handy as a service switch too.

Good luck!!

Kevin

[Anonymous]

The flat blade of a screw driver across those terminals works really well also!

[buddy]

Kevin,

Thanks a lot for wiring instructions on door lock. As always you're the best. I will keep this on file for future reference.

[buddy]

Both problems resolved. W184 was not getting power to the drain at all. Must be some lose connection. I opened up the top tray and pushed in all connectors on the timer and tightened all screws on realy switches and now it works fine.

W74, I rebuilt door lock and corrected my wiring based on Kevin's instructions and now it works fine.

Thank you all for your help.