Loadstar III Ignition Problem

[Todd]

I have a Loadstar III dryer that had no heat complaints. I opened up the top and it would fire up initially then die off very quick. I'd stop the machine, then start it again numerous times, and found that sometimes it fired up, sometimes there was no spark, and sometimes if would try to spark(could see the and hear the ignitor probe trying) I swapped out the ignitor probe, the lead wire, and the RAM ignitor unit, and I still have the exact same problem. I thought when you could hear it try to spark and it fails it was almost always the ignitor, what else could it be. Thanks in advance for all replies.

PS, I checked airflow switch and it is working properly.

[buddy]

Have you tried swapping Ignition Board with other dryer to see if it fixes the problem?

[CharlieS]

Could be a bad coil. If you have spark and no flame, then you have no gas. Check for voltage to the coils. If you have voltage, and no gas, it is almost certainly a coil.

Charlie

[TTLES]

condition # 1 ....Initial ignition OK, gryer reaches temperature but will not fire on next ignition.....Bad coil,, replace the set

Condition # 2....intermittant ignition.....spark is present but no flame. When no flame, do you smell gas inside the cylinder (check this quickly , right after ignition trial) if gas is present, remove burner and clean with compressed air, check to see that ignition probe is in proper position....spark should jump the gap of the probe, there should be no spark from the burner to the probe.

[Todd]

Thanks for all the replies. Tony, it seems to be condition#1. I've never changed coils on these before. What's steps are involved. Thanks, Todd

[TTLES]

I am going to assume that you have the White Rogers Valve. This has 2 small black coils with a bracket that holds each to the valve body. Remove the grey plastic cover, only one screw holds it to the valve. Remove two scews that hold each bracket and remove each coil assembly, Don't loose the "O" ring under each assembly.
Make a sketch of the direction of the coils and the wiring before you start. AND MAKE SURE YOU TURN OFF THE GAS AND POWER BEFORE YOU START. When all is back together, turn on the gas and check for leaks. If all is well, then turn on the power and test.

[TTLES]

Was this origanaly a glo bar dryer ??? Ram or IEI should have only two coils (secondary). The origional Glo bar type had 3 coils, (booster, holding, and secondary)

[BWJR]

Replace both coils. Adjust probe.

[Todd]

Tony, you called it, it is the a glo bar conversion and it has 3 coils. Quick ? on the wiring. I'm not real familiar with the valve and have never changed coils, but I looked a it a while abck and thought I remembered some of teh coils going to a harnesses. Does this sound right. Should I just cut and use wire nuts or splice connectors when re-wiring.

[TTLES]

The conversion from glo bar to ram should include replacing the booster and holding coils with a secondary coil. Wire the coils as follows : connect one wire from each coil to the white ram wire marked Main Valve Return. Connect the other lead from each coil to the blue ram wire marked Main Valve. It doesn't mater which coil lead you choose to be the "HOT" or "COMMON, (RETURN)" Each coil has to have one hot lead and one common lead.

[Todd]

Thanks Tony, I appreciat the all the info

[Tom Ala.]

I use crimp conectors when doing this I have had wire nuts work loose. Tom

[Todd]

Thanks again for everyone's input, you were right it was a bad coil, problem solved