Help - Wasco TD 30/30 problem

[buddy]

I have a new Wasco TD30/30 and 2-3 weeks ago I started getting E17 error. I checked the Ignition Control Box in the back and the plastic case on the ignition control board was burnt and melted.

I called Wascomat and they sent me new Ignition Control Board last week. I replaced the Ignition Control and It would run fine for few cycles and then come up with E14 error.

Today I inspected the new Ignition Control Board and plastic case is burnt and melted again exposing the circuit board.

Any idea what would keep melting the Ignition Control Board?

Thanks,

[CharlieS]

This sounds like something external is happening. Check it out while its running. Have you changed the default temps? Are all of the panels in the correct position. Compare this with the machine next to it and see if there are any differences. I'm assuming from your description that the problem is not coming from the board overheating under the board, but the cover overheating over the board, which means that something is heating that cover.

The E17 error is an air inlet thermister error overheat.

I would begin by checking the airflow through this unit. Pull and clean the secondary screen. Pull and clean the rear exhaust plenum. Check the dampers above the fans. I found several of my machines with dampers stuck closed due to debris and pop rivets or screws dropped into the exhaust duct.

These machines are finicky about requiring good airflow in and out. Do you have good makeup air? With a louvered opening, you need about 3 square feet per stack (not per pocket) as a minimum. Is your exhaust plenum set up well? Watch the dryers and empty pockets around a running dryer with a wet load. Is condensation forming on the glass? Are they warm inside, even though they haven't been run? This is a sure indication that you are getting blowback into the other dryers on the same plenum, due to a poor exhaust structure.

Check the airflow first.

Charlie

[TTLES]

Buddy, We had what seems to be the same situation with a TD 30-30. It turned out to be a defect or damage to the burner housing. We sub contract labor for a local dealer. He ordered a new complete burner housing from wascomat. We installed the housing and have not had a similar problem. Also a new ign module.(about 6 weeks in service since the repair.) Obviously there could be other reasons.....Venting, would be my first choice. I don't buy "make up air", especially if you have a good blue flame. You might look for a sticking damper along with a misadjusted air flow switch. Possibly a fan or fan motor malfunction. Hope this helps, Tony

[buddy]

OK replaced Ignitor box third time and same thing - it melted. The compartment where ignitor box is located gets really hot almost as hot as dryer drum and it starts melting the ignitor box.

What Next?

Thanks,

[KT40]

We have found out recently that the seal between the cylinder (felt) and the sweep sheet (plastic) can cause this to happen. Did you find a piece of felt in the lint drawer lately??? If so, you will have to replace it.

When this seal fails, we are linking the ignition module failures to it. It is a very recent find, but it is becoming more and more evident that this can cause the modules to melt. The air flow is changed by this seal not working and can cause the flame to be erratic.

Check it out and let me know.

Kevin

[buddy]

Kevin,


I found three different parts in the manual described as Felt Seal.
Part# 231719, 192047 and 192070. Which one are you referring to 192047 ?
How do I get to it?

Thanks,

[KT40]

I'm not sure which is the right one. I'm off today and don't have access to the manual. Any one of the guys should be able to tell you. To get to it you must remove the front panel and door. That will give you a better look at it. If it needs replacement, the drum will have to come out. (not what you want to hear, but the truth)

It's a little intimidating at first, but all in all, it's really not that hard to do.

How hard can it be if I can do it??????

:-)

Kevin

[buddy]

OUCH !!!! :)